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Lawn Care - Spring in Atlanta means Crabgrass

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If you don’t use a regular lawn care service, crabgrass is one of your biggest dilemmas. Crabgrass (Digitaria spp), also spelled Crab Grass, is a warm-season annual weed, it reproduces by seed and can come back from a network of roots that have been established in the lawn. Typically applying a Pre-Emergent herbicide at the right time is the best and most effective way to kill crabgrass.

 

Pre-Emergent Herbicides for Killing Crabgrass: When to Apply

When trying to get rid of crabgrass, it helps to know the life cycle of it. When the soil temperatures reach 55-60 degrees Fahrenheit, the first crabgrass seeds will begin to germinate. From Late Spring to Fall, crabgrass produces seed. These seeds in turn create more crabgrass clumps. In the fall crabgrass plants, not the seeds, are killed by frosts in late fall. Crabgrass roots will go dormant specially if they are along a drive way or around the house, because it tends to stay warmer in those areas. 

Pre-Emergent herbicides come in either granular or liquid form and kill crabgrass seedlings as they germinate. Think of Pre-Emergent herbicides as forming an invisible shield across the soil surface that stops emerging crabgrass dead in its tracks. As their name suggests, Pre-Emergent herbicides kill crabgrass at a specific time: before (PRE) seedlings emerge. For success in getting rid of crabgrass in this manner, timing is of the essence. Apply Pre-Emergent herbicides before germination, but not too far ahead.

 

Types of Pre-Emergent Herbicides for Killing Crabgrass

There are many different types of Pre-Emergent herbicides for killing crabgrass. "Weed and feed" products often contain Pre-Emergent herbicides, although some question whether their concentration is strong enough to be effective.

Using Pre-Emergent Herbicides for Killing Crabgrass: DOs and DON'Ts

Do:

·        Irrigate afterwards: water activates Pre-Emergent herbicides.

·        Re-apply Pre-Emergent herbicides, if you question your product's coverage. Because crabgrass seedlings do not all germinate at once, re-application can kill some of the later-germinating crabgrass.

·        Follow label directions and apply the proper rate. Measure the lawn area and calibrate your spreader carefully.

Don't:

·        Allow pets or children on lawn until after 24 hours from the application time

·        Apply Pre-Emergent herbicides on new sod.

There are also herbicides for killing crabgrass well after it has germinated called post-emergents, but they are effective only at killing young crabgrass plants. Because these young crabgrass plants are small, they are very difficult to detect in a lawn. Post-emergent herbicides are far less useful than Pre-Emergent herbicides for killing crabgrass.

Crabgrass Control: Organically

Is there any other way to prevent crabgrass? The answer is, No. But, while the best way to kill crabgrass is with Pre-Emergent herbicides, your other option to control it is by having a healthy lawn. Here are some ways to promote lawn health at the expense of crabgrass:

·        Winterize your lawn in the fall. This will promote root development. By then, frosts will have already killed any crabgrass.

·        Don't let bare spots remain uncovered for long, else opportunistic crabgrass will take root. In the fall, fill in those bare spots by putting sod down or seeding whatever is appropriate for your turf.

·        When irrigating the lawn, water more deeply and less frequently. Crabgrass is a notoriously shallow weed. It’s better to water 1 day a week for 1 hour than 20 min 5 days a week.

·        Mow "high", leaving the lawn grass at a height of 2 1/2"-3". This will allow the lawn grass to "protect its own turf" better, depriving crabgrass seeds of the light they need to germinate.

 

Our Lawn Care program is specially designed to prevent crabgrass. We ensure proper application of our specially blended products. We find that even though a lot of our customers enjoy taking care of their lawn, they have less and less time to do it. Using a professional company not only frees up time, but you won’t have to guess when to apply products. Not to mention storing the products and equipment, and keeping it away from children and pets.

 

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Lawn Care: Aeration & Seeding Season for Fescue

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Cool season lawns (Fescue)should be aerated and seeded every fall to stay thick and healthy. Unlike warm season lawns (Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede), cool season lawns do not spread and require overseeding to fill in thin or bare areas. Cool season lawns should be aerated and seeded between September and November for best results. This will allow the new seedlings time to mature and develop a strong root system before the cold winter months. This will also ensure a thick, healthy lawn the following spring. Seeding a cool season lawn in the spring is not recommended in most cases. Spring seeding can interfere with spring Crabgrass pre-emergent treatments and cause weeds problems later in the year. Also, the root system normally does not have time to develop and mature before the hot summer months. This will cause cool season lawns to be more susceptible to insects, disease, and heat stress.

Here are some tips and rules to guide yourself by in the process: 

 

  • Do a soil test if possible before aerating and seeding. Preparing the soil is ultimately important. 
  • Determine the foot traffic in the area where you plan on seeding. In Georgia Fescue is not a good turf to have in heavy foot traffic areas, so re-evaluate what you should do in these areas. 
  • Mark sprikler Heads before aerating. 
  • Utilize the correct amount of seed for the area you are covering. There are different rates for established lawns and for areas that are bare.
  • Only use a small amount of wheat straw on areas that are bare. Heavy straw can conflict with the amount of sunlight the seed is getting.
  • Water, Water, Water once to twice a day, (10-15 minutes), just enough to keep the seed moist for the first 7 days. Do not let the new seedlings dry out. Once the seed germinates you can start adding more time to your watering schedule but cut back on the frequency.
We provide these services to our customer so please feel free to contact us. For a quote please (Click Here!)

 

LawnCare: Dollar Spot Disease

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Dollar spot disease of turfgrass is named for the straw-colored, silver dollar-sized spots that appear on golf greens. The disease causes larger spots on higher cut turfgrass. Dollar spot disease of lawns usually appears in somewhat irregular circles 3 to 6 inches in diameter. If the spots coalesce, a more general blight may be observed.

A more certain diagnosis of this disease can be made by examining individual leaves. The typical dollar spot lesion is straw colored and girdles the entire leaf blade. The top and bottom borders of the lesion are usually dark reddish-brown. The lesion often has an hourglass shape (See Pics Below). If the infected grass is examined in the morning while dew is still present, the white web-like mycelium of the fungus may be observed.



Dollar spot is most common in early summer, late summer, and early fall in humid weather with warm days and cool nights. Dollar spot is less prominent in very hot weather.

Recent studies have suggested that although dollar spot has traditionally been attributed to the one fungus, Sclerotinia homoeocarpa, there may indeed other fungi involved in the disease complex. They survive as resting mycelium and as linear black mycelial inclusions (stromata) in the thatch. In humid weather, the grass plants exude sugars and other nutrients during the night in guttation droplets. This provides a nutrient source for the fungi to begin to grow on the surface of the leaf blades and initiate infections. Turfgrasses appear to be more susceptible to infection when nutrient-deficient and when the soil is dry, probably because both factors reduce the growth of the grass plants.

Damage:

Usually, only the leaf blades become infected. Dollar spot rarely causes severe damage on lawn grasses. All turfgrasses are susceptible to dollar spot disease, but some Kentucky bluegrass cultivars are relatively resistant.

Cultural Management:

Dollar spot disease usually occurs on lawns that are nitrogen-deficient. Application of fertilizer will stimulate growth, so the infected leaf blades may be mowed off. Sufficient water should be applied when rainfall is sparse. Thick thatch stresses the turfgrass and increases dollar spot. If dollar spot is present in the lawn, it is best to mow only when the grass is dry to prevent spreading the fungus, and to remove the clippings. Mow the grass high and do not remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at a single cutting to avoid stress. Water deeply and infrequently. Light sprinklings, especially late in the day, will increase disease. Increase air movement by pruning trees and shrubs so the grass will dry more quickly.

Chemical Management:

Dollar spot disease responds readily to fungicides, but application of fertilizer and attention to watering practices is usually sufficient to minimize the disease. Dollar spot rarely causes sufficient injury to lawns to justify the use of fungicides.

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